FREEMASONRY TODAY
Covent Garden and Freemasonry
David Peabody Casts an Affectionate Eye Over this Famous Neighbourhood
Covent Garden is said to be a corruption of Convent Garden, an enclosure belonging to the Abbots of Westminster in the thirteenth century and used for "burying their dead out of sight". This was confirmed in 1829 when builders digging the foundations of a new market exhumed human bones on the north side of the area.
In addition, the Benedictine monks of St Peter at Westminster appear to have used it partly as their kitchen garden, supplying the needs of the community, and also supplying the public markets to bring income to the Abbey. A map of the period shows it to have comprised roughly seven acres: Long Acre, bordered on each side by a row of Elm trees, ran through the north. Here the citizens of London could walk in the country lanes and green fields during the summer months.
With the dissolution of religious houses under King Henry VIII the first great changes to the area began. The property passed into the hands of the Duke of Somerset but on his disgrace, in 1552, it was given to the Duke of Bedford; its annual income was "six pounds, six shillings and eight pence". In 1627 it was still a garden; later it became more commercial. The Spectator, in the early eighteenth century, informs us that,
The middle walk consisted of odd tumbled-down shed shops, though the fruit, flowers, and vegetables were excellent, crockery-ware was sold in several of them. There were two medical herb-shops, where you could purchase leeches and snails, then employed to make a broth for consumptive patients, also a well known itinerant bird-dealer had a stall, where he sold larks, owls and canaries, and could supply you a talking parrot, or manufacture you a love-bird on the shortest of notice.
In 1630-33, the Earl of Bedford commissioned Inigo Jones to design houses "fit for the habitations of gentlemen". This Jones did, using the Palladian style of architecture common in Italy. His houses occupied three sides of the square. St. Paul’s Church at the western end of the square was also begun. Running short of funds, the Earl sent for Inigo Jones, insisting that the work must not cost too much. "In short", he said, "I would have it not much better than a barn". "Well then", replied Jones, "You shall have the handsomest barn in England".
The Church was begun in 1631 with the impressive Tuscan portico facing eastwards onto the square. Unfortunately, the Bishop of London, William Laud, insisted that the altar should be against the east wall and so the portico was never used, two small doors being substituted on either side of it. The main entrance was by the west door which opened onto a small graveyard and led to Bedford Street. The Church was completed in 1633, consecrated in 1638 and, with the rapid growth of the area, became the centre of a separate parish in 1645.
It was around this time that the names of the streets familiar to us came into being: King Street, leading from the north-west; Bedford Street, in the west; Henrietta Street, in the south-west; James Street, in the north; Southampton Street with Maiden Lane in the south; and Russell Street in the east, next to The Royal Opera House.
The first playhouse in Drury Lane was frequently spoken of as the Covent Garden Theatre. The Daily Advertiser for March 2nd 1730, stated, "We hear the new theatre which is to be built in Covent Garden will be after the model of the Opera House in the Haymarket: and by the same, it’s said it will exceed the Opera House in magnificence of structure". The theatre was opened in 1732.
Freemasonry in Covent Garden
Shortly before the opening of this first theatre, Freemasonry was recorded in Covent Garden: the Grand Lodge List of Lodges, published in 1723, records that the first Lodge in Covent Garden met at the Duke of Bedford’s Head, Southampton Street. This tavern was kept by the brother-in-law of lawyer Horne Tooke, staunch defender of John Wilkes – a member of a Liberal Club which also met there. The List for 1725 records forty-one members of the Lodge; one of whom was Martin Foulkes, a past President of the Royal Society.
Also in Covent Garden was the Bedford Arms: meeting there in 1733 was the Lodge now known as the Royal Kent Lodge of Antiquity (No. 20). Over the years it met in a number of establishments there: at the Two Black Posts, Maiden Lane; the Globe Tavern and the Mitre Tavern, both in Globe Lane; the Theatre Coffee House and Bury’s Coffee House, both in Bridges Street.
The Bedford Coffee House occupied the north-east corner of the square, near to the entrance of the theatre and was frequented by the celebrated actor, David Garrick, as well as Fielding, Pope, Sheridan and Horace Walpole. It was here that Dr. John Desaguliers, third Grand Master, passed away in 1743. The following unflattering ode was penned:
Here poor neglected Desaguliers fell!
He who taught two gracious kings to view
All Boyle ennobled and all Bacon knew,
Died in a cell, without a friend to save,
Without a guinea, and without a grave.
Next door to the Bedford Coffee House was the Shakespeare’s Head; meeting there in 1735 was the Stewards Lodge; now the Grand Stewards Lodge.
The Lebecks Head, in Maiden Lane, is also mentioned as a meeting place for a Lodge in the 1725 List. Lebeck was a famous Huguenot chef; the Lodge meeting there had nineteen members, probably of Huguenot descent.
Meeting at the Apple Tree Tavern, Charles Street (now Wellington Street), was one of the four Lodges which formed Grand Lodge in 1717; this is now the Fortitude and Old Cumberland Lodge (now No.12). One of its members was Anthony Sayer, our first Grand Master. Colley Cibber lived at No. 3 Charles Street: he was the son of Caius Gabriel Cibber, one of Sir Christopher Wren’s Master Carvers at the building of St Paul’s Cathedral. A Bro. Cibber Junior is recorded as a member of a Lodge at The Bear and Harrow, Butcher’s Row, near Covent Garden, in 1725: this may be Colley.
During this period Covent Garden began to acquire a bad reputation. It ceased to be fashionable; the quality had moved westwards. With its theatres, coffee houses, gaming rooms, brothels and bath-houses, its reputation had plummeted. Its shopkeepers and traders appealed in 1730,
Several people of the most notorious characters and infamously wicked lives and conversation have late years taken up abode in the Parish, there are several streets and courts such as Russell Street, Drury Lane, Crown Court, and Kings Court, with divers places within the said Parish and more particularly in the neighbourhood of Drury Lane infested with these vile people, there are frequent outcries in the night, fighting, robberies and all sorts of debaucheries committed by them all night long to the great inquietude of his Majesty’s subjects".
The Old Kings Arms Lodge (now No.28) first met in the Freemason’s Coffee House, New Belton Street in 1725, but by 1731, had moved to the Cross Keys, Henrietta Street; a street named after Henrietta Maria, Queen of Charles I, and very fashionable when first built. The Rummer, also in Henrietta Street, is recorded as hosting a Lodge in 1725 (lapsed 1746). Masonry continued throughout the eighteenth century.
Covent Garden Market
It was in 1830 that the Market was erected from the designs of Charles Fowler. Freemasonry was still active during this century with the St George’s and Cornerstone Lodge (now No.5) meeting at the Piazza Coffee House and the Enoch Lodge (now No.11) meeting at the Royal Hotel and the Lodge of Good Report (now No.136) at The Feathers, Hart Street.
The Floral hall was added in 1860, the flower market in 1871, and the Jubilee Market in 1904. The fruit and vegetable stalls were closed in 1972-74 and the Flower Market now hosts the Transport and Theatre Museums.
Covent Garden is one of the main tourist attractions for visitors to London with its street theatre, wine bars, public houses, shops and clubs. The area is as vibrant as it was in the past. Visit on any day of the week and you will feel its history: Covent Garden is London.
A Gavel and a Pint
Freemasons’ Hall lies just beyond the limit of Covent Garden and today the area is still used by Freemasons after their meetings. Many use some of the old taverns which are still extant, perhaps the Freemasons’ Arms in Long Acre; others may dine at the Garrick Club. Above many of the public houses on weekdays you can hear a gavel going down at a Lodge of Instruction; walk into many of the bars and you will find men in morning suits and black ties having a pint and enjoying the feeling of Covent Garden and its neighbourhood.
David Peabody is a professional photographer and a Past Master of Quatuor Coronati Lodge, No. 2076
Issue 19, January 2002
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