When, last year, the French decided not to allow our excellent beef back into their country, I thought the time was ripe to have a look again at English wine. Now that so much good wine comes into Britain from the antipodes, America north and south, South Africa, as well as other countries in Europe, it is quite possible to boycott French wines without penalising oneself too much. This would be a mistake, however, since the French, when they get it right, make better wines than anyone else in the world. Unless your political views govern your gastronomic activity, I could not recommend such a step. But what about our own domestic producers?
    My early experiences of English wines were not happy. Limp, sweet and characterless, they made Blue Nun look like nectar. Furthermore they were priced at a level which reflected small production, difficult climate, and a discriminatory tax regime. Although nothing much has changed about our climate (give or take a bit of global warming), the English wine producers have made enormous forward strides. This is largely due to an improvement in technology and winemaking, an appreciation of what will grow best where, and a realisation that although loss-making hobbies could be fun, making money by taking account of what the market was looking for could be better. They have also formed a promotional organisation called English Wine Producers, to advance their joint interests. Incidentally, there are wines made in Wales, but to accommodate them by referring to British wines leads to confusion, since this was the term used to describe that revolting ersatz sherry made from imported concentrated grape juice (now known as ‘made wine’ thanks to one of the few sensible diktats to come from the EU!)
    On a chilly January morning, I took myself off to the Old Luxters Vineyard, which is to be found (well sign-posted) just behind the charming village of Hambleden, between Henley-on-Thames and Marlow. Here, the genial owner, David Ealand, makes a wide variety of wines, still and sparkling, white, red and rosé. These are marketed under the label of Chiltern Valley. The first Chiltern Valley vineyard was planted in 1982, and the first harvest took place two years later. Now with the vineyard having reached maturity, they make wine for many other grape growers, and have an annual sale of over 120,000 bottles. They use grape varieties that few consumers will know, such as Reichensteiner, Huxelrebe and Madeleine Angevine. Possibly the most popular is the appropriately named Bacchus, and for their reds and rosé, Dornfelder is preferred. Putting such names on a label does not help the punter, but these mainly teutonic varieties are best suited to English growing conditions and terroir. Familiar breeds like Chardonnay do not do well over here, in spite of the heroic efforts of the early pioneer Sir Guy Salisbury-Jones, who planted it at Hambledon (do not confuse with Hambleden!) in Hampshire soon after the second world war.
    David Ealand also brews a wonderful selection of real ale, the sort of stuff which, had Sean Connery found it thirty years ago, he would never have needed that chest wig! His wines are, in the main, very reasonably priced and he was kind enough to let me taste through the range. The least expensive is Chiltern Valley Medium Dry at £4.95. This lacks a bit of backbone, due, I felt to its low alcoholic degree (10.5%) and limited acidity. However, it is fresh and fruity, and if not over chilled, would make a delightful aperitif. I was more impressed by the Dry (£5.45), the Oak Aged Dry (£5.75), and the Old Luxters Reserve (£6.75). Those who have got used to oaked wines from Australia would probably look for more woodiness, but over-oaking is now a common way of disguising poorish wines, and I found Chiltern Valley’s oak influence just about right, letting the fruit flavour through while adding an element of firmness. The Old Luxters Reserve was terrific - a spicy number that would make a brilliant accompaniment to smoked salmon, or other strongly flavoured and oily fish.
    David Ealand’s proudest products are his sparkling wine and his dessert wine. The sparkler, which is produced in the same way as champagne, was submitted, unknown to David, to a blind tasting in Paris which included many household name champagnes, and was actually awarded the number one spot - a real accolade, which apparently did not amuse the French tasters when all was revealed! It sells here at £12.75 and is worth it. Although one can buy real champagne for less than that, I would not recommend it. The Luxters Dessert will cost you £9.95 for a half bottle, but it is a revelation. More akin to a Côteaux de Layon (the sweet wine from Anjou) or a Jurançon than those supreme sweeties from Sauternes or Barsac, it would be stunning with foie gras as a starter, or with a not-too-acidic pudding.
    A sample of one English winery is not enough on which to judge the whole of this reviving industry, but I strongly recommend your taking the trouble to find out where your nearest English vineyard is to be found, or at least where a fair range is stocked. You might well surprise yourself, and your friends - particularly if you have some French ones!