There is almost as much variety in brandy as there is in wine. After all, brandy is wine that has been distilled and aged (for varying amounts of time) in oak barrels. It is therefore not surprising that one finds brandy being made everywhere that grapes grow. However, when it comes to quality, I have to admit that, as so often, the French take the crown. There are three French brandies that have an appellation contrôlée: cognac, armagnac and calvados. I have drunk brandies from as far afield as South Africa, China and California, and although they may please a local market, they do not get to the starting-gate on the international stage.
    Cognacs that you have heard of tend to be owned by the big international concerns (Martell belongs to Seagrams, Hennessy to LVMH, Courvoisier to Allied Domecq &c.) This is not a bad thing in itself, but tends to result in their Three Star, or VS products being rather bland and similar. Their QS (qualité supérieure) bottles are absurdly expensive and packaged like scent, as they compete for the favours of the duty-free shopper, or the once-buoyant far-eastern market. You would do better to seek out something like Cognac Gourmel, a delectable and wholly natural cognac made by a small family concern with no pretension.
    Armagnac is a different creature. More robust and earthy, it reflects more the character of its makers than many cognacs. Cognac is near the sea, about 100km north-east of Bordeaux, and has long been traded internationally. Armagnac is further to the south, landlocked, with no navigable rivers leading it to a wider market. For this reason, it has habitually been made more to please the locals than anyone else, and diligent research can reward you with some very special bottles, at prices that shock less than those of ancient cognac.
    Calvados is of course made by distilling cider rather than wine, and can be delicious, if rather more inclined to hit the head, should you over-indulge. Many British tourists are tempted by roadside producers, but unless you are prepared to go in for ruthless selection after extensive tasting, caution is recommended – and even more caution if you are!
    I like to drink armagnac after a seriously rich meal (foie gras, creamy sauces, you know the sort of thing!), when its rustic potency will cut through excess and settle the tummy. Cognac seems to go better after haute cuisine of a more sophisticated nature, when, like a fine wine, it will complement your meal, rather than just sort out the digestion.
    For a really interesting selection of brandies, rather than the boring old names you know too well, contact Eaux de Vie Ltd., of 3 Harcourt St., London W1H 1DS. Tel : 0171 724 5009. You’ll find a world you didn’t know existed!